Félix Brun
Lycée Hôtelier Lesdiguières in Grenoble
Félix wrote a very good piece on his internship.
Félix waits to express himself in the lab...
... then remains very focused throughout his preparation.
Calf sweetbreads in the forest
A woodland inspiration for Félix

Portrait

The mountain is my element. My father is a high-mountain guide and I have always walked with my parents. I come from the Hautes-Alpes, in the Briançonnais at the foot of the massif of the Ecrins. I’ve competed for ten years in cross-country skiing; I practise English boxing (in competition too) and alpinism. My father travelled all over the world to climb peaks and sometimes we were able to go with him. In this way I could explore – like a backpacker – a part of Asia, Iceland, Finland… This is where my taste for cuisine comes from – from discovering the savours of the world. And I want to go on exploring other cuisines, other gastronomies on the planet. I also had the chance to do my MAN* course with the Chefs Régis and Jacques Marcon in their 3-star restaurant of Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid in Haute-Loire, as they recruit many trainees from the Lycée Lesdiguières. And the first-year BTS* with Samuel Destaing, a star-winning Chef from the Alpes at Orsières in Switzerland.

My parents would have liked me to continue my scientific studies (I did a Bac SSI*), but I couldn’t see myself in an engineering school. For the Trophy, I trained a lot on my recipe; I did a real in-depth job. With the victory I feel happy and relieved!

 

*MAN – Mise à Niveau – Bringing up to grade

*BTS – Brevet de Technicien Supérieur – Advanced technician’s certificate

*Bac SSI – Scientifique Sciences de l’Ingénieur – Baccalaureate in Engineering Sciences

Photos: Eric d’Herouville


Recipe sheet: Calf sweetbreads in the forest

5

 

Advance preparation

 

Disgorge and blanch the sweetbreads.

Rehydrate the morel mushrooms in 1.5 times their volume of warm water for 20 minutes. Peel the parsnips, cut into quarters and set aside. Peel and finely dice the pears, sprinkle with lemon juice and set aside.
Peel the sweet potatoes.

Cut 5 small columns of sweet potato 5 cm high using a pastry cutter, with an apple corer, create a small well inside. Set aside.

Remove the leaves from the parsley and set aside.

 

 

Ingredients Quantities
Calf Sweetbread 5
Sweet potatoes 1 kg
Parsnips 250 g
Pears 500 g
Lemon 1
Dried morel mushrooms 33 g
Flat parsley 1 bunch

 

Make the parsley cakes

 

Ingredients Quantities
Water  0.050 L
Butter 17 g
Salt 2 g
Egg 1
Sifted flour 33 g
Baking powder 1 g
Parsley leaves 40 g
Natural Parsley Flavouring QS

Blitz the parsley with a little water. Strain and set aside the juice. Melt the butter with water and salt, mix. Add all other ingredients and mix again. Fill a siphon with 2 gas cartridges. Fill plastic cups halfway with the preparation. Cook two by two in the microwave at full power for 50 sec. Remove the cups, turn them over and leave to cool upside down. Turn out the cakes and leave to cool on a wire grid.

 

Cooking of the vegetables and preparation of the glaze 

 

Mix the honey, Porto® and morel water, reduce.

Season and cook the sweet potato columns in a steam oven at 100°C for 10 min. Set aside.

Steam the morel mushrooms making sure not to overcook them. Set aside.

Cook the parsnips in the cream with the tonka beans, season and strain. Mix and slowly add the cream used to cook them to the desired consistency. Smooth with butter. Keep warm in a water bath for the service.

Ingredients Quantities
Lavender honey 20 g
Morel mushroom water 0.200 L
Porto® 0.100 L
Sweet potato columns 5
Rehydrated morels 100 g
Parsnips 250 g
Liquid cream 500 g
Tonka beans QS

 

Preparation of the pear coulis and red fruit coulis

 

Ingredients Quantities
Les vergers Boiron Pear puree 200 g
Les vergers Boiron Red fruits puree 200 g
Liquid cream 0.010 L
Curry powder 2 kg

Heat the purees separately. Cream the pear purée and season with curry. Set aside the red fruit coulis in a pipette. Set aside the pear coulis.

 

Mushroom caps

 

Blitz the salted chicken breast and cep powder together. Add the very cold cream. Blend again. Add the diced pear. Season with curry and put in a piping bag.

Flatten the cooked morels between two clean cloths. Line 5 small hemispherical tins with them. Fill with mousseline filling. Cooked in a steam oven at 100°C up to 64°C at core.

Keep warm for the service.

Ingredients Quantities
Cooked morels 100 g
Chicken breast 100 g
Cream 100 g
Cep powder 5 g
Diced pears 300 g
Curry powder 2 g

 

Cooking of the Calf Sweetbreads

 

Ingredients Quantities
Calf Sweetbread  600 g
Clarified butter 150 g
Unpeeled garlic clove 2
Sprig of thyme 1
Flour 50 g

Season the Sweetbreads Coat them in flour. Remove any excess flour. Fry in butter. Continually baste in the pan. Add garlic and thyme halfway through cooking. Finish cooking in the oven at 180°C for 5 min.

 

Presentation
Heat the sweet potato columns in a steam oven. Pour the pear cream into their wells. Lacquer the mushroom “caps” with the morel caramel. Lacquer the Sweetbreads with the morel caramel. Draw a ribbon of parsnip puree, pour out the red fruit puree. Stack the sweetbreads on top of the sponges. Finish off with marigold flowers and Shiso.

Last update: 24 February 2016